Speciality & Fine Food Fair talks to Nourished Communities Co-Founder Rollo Millership about the business’s journey, its producer-led approach and the role community plays in shaping its future. 

For many independents, the upheaval of 2020 marked a turning point. For Nourished Communities, it became the catalyst for a business that now spans multiple London neighbourhoods and serves as a model for community focused food retail.  

What began as a lockdown lifeline for farmers unable to sell their produce has evolved into one of the capital’s most dynamic retailers and the winner of this year’s Large Independent Retailer of the Year, sponsored by WBC, in partnership with BIRA, at Speciality & Fine Food Fair. 

Rollo reflects on the journey, one rooted in long standing producer relationships, a commitment to quality and a strong sense of place. 

From market stalls to multi-site retailer 

Nourished Communities’ origins stretch back long before its first shop opened. As a teenager, Rollo spent his weekends selling fruit and vegetables across farmers’ markets in London. The connections he built with growers at that time later became crucial when lockdown halted market trading. 

“Lots of the farmers contacted me because they could not sell,” he explains. “Back then it was mostly cash, so trust mattered.” 

A pop-up space followed, then a fully operational store, and soon after a series of openings across Finsbury Park, Walthamstow and Blackhorse Road. The team builds each shop themselves, often completing the work in a matter of weeks. 

The business has developed a broad offer that reflects its close relationships with suppliers. Meat, fish, cheese, bread, pantry goods, urban honey in its garden, a respected wine selection, refills, educational workshops and a growing online hamper service all form part of the model. 

Nourished Communities is a significant retail customer for St. JOHN Wine and works directly with schools, churches and charities on a wide range of food and creative projects. A new bakery is currently being set up within the warehouse and will supply the stores with savoury snacks and cakes. 

Building community hubs 

Community engagement is central to the business. Tastings run weekly, producers visit regularly and the brand’s newsletter reaches around 14,000 readers with updates on art shows, local businesses and new products. 

This focus helped secure the 2025 award. “You spend so much time working inside the business that you forget what you have built,” Rollo says. “It was lovely to receive recognition.” 

Despite strong momentum, the team faces the same pressures affecting independents across the city. Business rates, increased wage costs and a rise in shoplifting all present challenges. Stores often operate with a single staff member on shift which can make theft difficult to manage. Two recent robberies in Finsbury Park have been particularly hard for the team. 

“The safety of our people is the priority,” Rollo says. “Plus, supermarkets can often absorb losses. We cannot.” 

Sourcing, seasonality and future trends 

Although the business began with a purely British sourcing philosophy, customer preferences have required a broader offer. Around 70 to 75 per cent of the vegetables are still UK sourced, often through regenerative farming networks such as the Better Food Shed. 

A key part of the sourcing strategy is the collaboration with Better Food Shed, the not-for-profit wholesale arm of Growing Communities. Based in Bow, East London, Better Food Shed distributes up to 20 tonnes of fresh organic produce every week from around 23 small and medium UK organic farms, with many located within 70 miles of East London. 

The next phase of growth is already underway. Two new stores, in Leyton and Wood Street, are expected to open in early 2025. A bakery launch expanded wine programming and continued growth in hampers are also key priorities. The team is exploring imports from Spain and Greece, particularly tinned fish and premium olive oils. 

Despite the growth of online retail, physical stores remain essential to the identity of Nourished Communities. “Online was huge during lockdown but shops became part of people’s daily walk,” Rollo says. “Community happens in person.” 

Nourished Communities combines entrepreneurial energy with strong producer partnerships and a clear purpose rooted in locality. These qualities have defined the business since its beginnings and continue to shape its evolution. The 2025 award recognises a retailer that is not only thriving but also strengthening the communities it serves. 

Find out more about Nourished Communities at nourishedcommunities.com